Fishing Knot Picker
Pick the right knot for what you are tying, with steps, published strength percentages and the mistake that weakens almost every knot.
Your knot
Two rules apply to every knot here: wet it before cinching (friction heat weakens dry line) and pull it tight slowly and fully — a half-seated knot slips under load. Strength percentages are of the line's rated break, typical for well-tied knots.
The knot costs more than the line class
The load-bearing knots here run from about 95% of line strength down to 75%. On 20 lb line:
| Knot | For | Quoted | On 20 lb |
|---|---|---|---|
| Palomar | Hook or lure to mono/fluoro | ~95% | 19.0 lb |
| FG | Braid to fluorocarbon leader | ~95% | 19.0 lb |
| Palomar | Hook to braid | ~90–95% | 18.5 lb |
| Snell | Straight-line pull on a hook | ~90%+ | 18.0 lb |
| Non-slip loop (Kreh) | Free-swinging lure | ~85% | 17.0 lb |
| Blood knot | Join two similar monos | ~80–85% | 16.5 lb |
| Double Uni | Braid to fluorocarbon leader | ~80% | 16.0 lb |
| Dropper loop | Dropper for a second hook | ~70–80% | 15.0 lb |
4 pounds of spread does not sound like much until you compare it with the other lever. 17 lb mono tied with a Palomar carries 16.15 lb; 20 lb tied with a dropper loop carries 15.00. In the same units: stepping the line down a class costs 15%, and going from the best knot to the worst costs 21%. The knot swing is larger than a full step of line class, and unlike the line it is free.
And the percentages multiply
This is the part the single figures hide. A braid mainline with a fluorocarbon leader has two load-bearing knots in series, and the system is only as strong as the product.
| Rig | System strength | On 30 lb braid |
|---|---|---|
| Double Uni + Palomar | 74.0% | 22.2 lb |
| FG + Palomar | 87.9% | 26.4 lb |
| Dropper loop + Double Uni + Palomar | 55.5% | 16.7 lb |
Note what does and does not change. The FG's advantage over the Double Uni is 18.7% either way — as two single knots and as two whole systems — because the shared Palomar cancels out of the ratio. What the second knot changes is the absolute figure: an 80% knot does not give you a rig that holds 80%, it gives you one that holds 74%. The comparison between knots survives the multiplication; the number you would quote to yourself does not.
Add a dropper loop for a second hook and you are running three knots at 55.5%. A 30 lb rig that breaks at 16.7 lb is not what anyone thinks they tied.
Two rows that cannot be scored the obvious way
The braid-to-leader row names two knots at different strengths — "Double Uni (easy) or FG (best)", at 80% and 95%. Averaging those to 87.5% would describe a knot nobody ties, so it is treated above as two separate options. That is also the honest way to present it: the row is a decision, not a specification.
The Snell is quoted as a floor rather than a midpoint, so it is scored at 90 — the reading that cannot flatter it.
And the arbor knot is left out of all of this. It attaches line to the spool and is not load-bearing; putting a percentage on it would be scoring something you only ever reach after a fish has taken every yard you own. That leaves 7 rows and 8 scored options.
Which changes what a drag setting means
The standard guidance is a quarter to a third of line test. But the rig does not break at the number on the box:
| Setting | On 20 lb | Share of a weakest-knot rig | Share of a three-knot rig |
|---|---|---|---|
| 25% of line test | 5.0 lb | 33% | 45% |
| 33% of line test | 6.6 lb | 44% | 59% |
A third of the label is 44% of what a badly tied rig can take, and 59% of a three-knot one. That does not make a third wrong — the margin is there precisely to absorb knots, nicks and shock. It does mean the margin is thinner than the fraction suggests, and thinnest exactly where somebody has tied three knots into the system.
How to use
- Choose what you are joining.
- Follow the steps for the recommended knot.
- Wet the knot before drawing it tight.
- Test it with a firm pull before fishing.
Frequently asked questions
Why must I wet a knot before tightening?
Because friction generates heat as the line draws through itself, and heat damages monofilament and fluorocarbon permanently. Wetting lubricates the knot so it seats smoothly and cools it as it tightens. It is the single most commonly skipped step and one of the most damaging.
How much strength does a knot cost?
Typically 15 to 30 per cent even when tied well, which is why drag is set at a fraction of line rating. A poorly tied or dry-tightened knot can cost far more. The knot is nearly always the weakest point in the system, and that is where a break will occur.
Which knot should I use for braid?
One with more wraps than you would use for mono, because braid is slick and slips. The Palomar is a common choice for its simplicity and strength, and knots that rely on friction alone often fail on braid unless additional turns are added.
Why did my knot fail?
Usually one of a few causes: tightened dry, tied in damaged line, wrapped the wrong number of turns for the line diameter, or seated unevenly so one strand took the load. Inspecting the tag end after a break often shows a curl, which indicates the knot slipped rather than the line breaking.
How often should I retie?
More often than most people do. After catching a decent fish, after any contact with structure, and at intervals during a session — line near the knot abrades invisibly, and a few seconds of retying is cheap against losing a fish. Running the last few feet between your fingers to feel for roughness is a good habit.
Is one knot enough to learn?
Two or three covers almost everything: one for tying to a hook or lure, one for joining two lines, and one for a loop. Learning a small number well beats knowing many badly, because tying reliably in poor light with cold hands is the actual test.
🔒 This tool runs entirely in your browser. Nothing you enter is uploaded, logged, or stored.